Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) Guide

The first time I went on a Northern Lights, aka Aurora Borealis, hunt we found nothing, in fact, it took me three visits to Iceland before we spotted them. One night, at home in the apartment, Ingimar had popped into the bedroom and was pulling down the blind. He hadn't turned on the light so spotted the Aurora and called me from the bedroom. He covered my eyes and took me out onto the balcony. Stretching across the entire sky was a bright green line in the sky, between the stars and shining so magically. It's hard to describe what they're like to see. They don't seem real, almost like something from a Disney movie but when you see them really dancing and changing colour then that's when the real magic comes!!

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If you've never seen them before, try to imagine the sky with a huge green rainbow stretching from horizon to horizon. It's like something out of the Polar Express movie, but real. I am lucky enough to have seen them quite a few times now. Last November the forecast was to be very high and so the city organized to turn off all the lights and asked homes to join in. This reduced light pollution in the city so the Aurora could be seen much more clearly. Often the Aurora can look like an odd cloud, a long greenish cloud but if you drive outside the city, away from artificial lights, then you really see it glow. 

You have to be careful though as the Northern Lights can be a little distracting. We hear of tourists driving the south coast and driving off-road accidentally as they looked up to see the Aurora Borealis. I can totally understand how this happens as I often saw them whilst driving to or from roller derby practice but please, pull aside and safely watch them. They are amazing but not worth risking your life for!!

So, armed with loads of pictures and video clips to remember them by, I am going to share some tips and tricks on how to see the Northern Lights in Iceland. 

Northern Lights

What Are The Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis)?

The Northern Lights in Iceland, sometimes referred to as Aurora Borealis, is a magical display of light in the sky that can only be seen in wintertime (September - April, when it's dark). It's scientific and a little technical but basically they are caused by the sun. The sun is a huge ball of hydrogen and other gases which fuse away in space. The sun has storms called solar storms. 

Imagine the sun like a huge ball of plasma. All the plasma swirling around within the sun makes a huge magnetic field that's under a lot of pressure. Sometimes the lines of force within these magnetic fields meet and leave the sun’s surface as hot gases and charged particles, and enter the earth’s atmosphere (solar flare). Once these flares reach Earth (solar winds) they can be extremely dangerous but our planet produces a magnetic field to help protect us (earth magnetosphere).

Earth’s magnetic field has two weak spots, the North and South Poles, which means a small amount of the sun’s charged particles can reach Earth’s atmosphere. These solar winds collide with the oxygen and nitrogen atoms of Earth's atmosphere, this enhances their energy. The atoms release this newfound energy in the form of particles of light (photons) and this light is known as the Aurora or Northern Lights. 

The colours of light you see depend on the different types of gas particles being released and colliding with the charged particles entering the earth’s hemisphere, i.e. Oxygen = green, Nitrogen = blue, red. Here in Iceland we mostly see a green light but it's possible to see blue or purple at the edge of the green. Last September was an amazing display where we saw a hint of pink, purple and red - it was as magical as it sounds.

Aurora Borealis
  • The Japanese believe that a child conceived under the dancing rays would be fortunate in life

  • Vikings believed that the Aurora was a bridge of fire to the sky, forged by the Gods

  • Scandinavian folklore describes them as the spirits of unmarried women

  • The Inuit thought they were the souls of the dead

When Is Best To See The Northern Lights?

The Northern Lights season here in Iceland typically runs from the 1st of September, through winter, until around the 15th of April. This is when the local Northern Lights tours run. 

The sky has to be dark to see them so coming to Iceland in the summer months will make viewing the Northern Lights impossible. However the winter months bring a lot of wintery weather and with snow and rain, there are clouds. We have a saying here in Iceland “if you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes” because if it’s snowing in the morning then it might be clear and frosty at night, so no clouds. The weather is a little unpredictable - recently we have had a warm snap with above freezing temperatures when we usually get -5’c. With this warmer weather, sometimes there is a lot of cloud coverage at night but the day is clear. 

It's best to wait until around 10 pm and, if you are able to stay up until the wee small hours, 1-2 am (don't worry, you can request an Aurora Northern Lights wake-up call from your hotel). Personally, I've spotted them the most in November, September, and March but I think that’s mostly because I was out and about. It sounds weird and we kind of take them for granted now but I often don’t even look up at the sky to check if they're there unless someones visiting us. 

Northern Lights Iceland

Are The northern lights guaranteed?

The simple answer is NO. 

To see the Northern Lights you need 3 things:

  1. Darkness - you won’t see them in the long, light summer nights

  2. Clear Skies - if there’s a lot of cloud coverage, you won’t see the lights

  3. Aurora Activity - they simply aren’t always dancing

A good mix of the above three things, plus a little luck, and you will have a very memorable night viewing the Northern Lights. Always check the Official Aurora Forecast before you head out Aurora Forecast to see what the next few days look like. This site rates how likely and how intense the lights will be Europe Aurora Forecast. There’s a fun video on this page SpaceWeather Enthusiast if you scroll near the bottom, it shows the Aurora Forecast and you can see the time the lights will be over Iceland. For a longer forecast, you can check 27 Day Flux Forecast which gives a 27-day outlook. 

Where To Best See Them In Iceland?

The Northern Lights, Aurora Borealis can be seen typically within the Arctic Circle. The South Pole also has a show of lights called the Aurora Australis. But for this post, let's focus on Iceland and Aurora Borealis.

You don’t need to go far out of the city to be in with a chance to see the dancing Aurora. If the sky is clear of clouds then head down to Grotto and wait patiently. If you have a car, drive out of the city and away from the light pollution to areas like Grotta, Mosfellsbaer, Seltjarnarnes, Perlan, where you can easily park. 

Further a field, head to:

  • Thingvellir National Park

  • Seljavallalaug

  • Vík

  • Eldborgahraun

  • Djúpavík

  • Westfjords, Eastfjords

  • Ásbyrgi Canyon

  • Hvammsfjordur

  • Jokulsarlon

  • Hvitserkur

  • Siglufjordur

  • Reynisvatn

  • Öskjuhlid

  • Kopavogur

  • Kirkjufell

What Are The Advantages Of Booking An aurora Tour?

The main advantage is that your tour guide knows the forecast and has access to much more information than we do so if they go out, there's a good chance of spotting the Northern Lights. This means that if the forecast isn't looking good by 6 pm, they send out a message and your tour is cancelled for the night and you'll have another chance the following night (at no extra cost). This will happen every night until you see them. They provide transport and know the roads so can take you to the right spots. Some tours also include entrance to the Aurora Reykjavik Museum in the old harbor. The museum has loads of information about mythology and science, photographs, a time-lapse video shown on widescreen of the Northern Lights from all over Iceland. 

Aurora Iceland

What Should I Wear?

It’s no fun standing around, freezing your butt off. So wrap up warm and wear some good hiking or snow boots. You might be heading out of the city and away from the shelter. It is Iceland and it is cold, the wind here is real!! So wrap up ready for it and be patient. Remember the layer rule: 

Base layer + Top layer + Outer layer = happy camper

And for those photographers out there, consider your poor wee fingers before exposing them to the freezing cold. Keep an eye on the weather in Iceland. It's also a good idea to bring your camera (obviously), a tripod for those long exposure shots, hand warmers, and a flask of yummy hot chocolate!!


How Does The Northern Lights Forecast Work?

Northern Lights Forecast

It's a little misleading as the green as the same colour as the lights in the sky but on this map: 

Green = Cloud

White = Clear sky

Head for the white areas, away from light pollution. The rule is, if you can see the stars then you have a good chance for the Northern Lights. Here's a video I made explaining how it works:


How Do You Photograph The Northern Lights?

Of course, the best souvenirs are your own photographs, and what trip to Iceland to see the Aurora Borealis wouldn’t be complete without a picture to prove it. This is a hard one though, and takes patience but don’t worry, you don’t need to be a photographer to capture the Aurora. Your smartphone might not cut it. But it will be helpful if you download the Aurora Forecast & Alerts app.

DSLR You don’t need expensive equipment to capture your shot of the Northern Lights, if you have a DSLR camera then great. Set the camera to manual and play around with your ISO, aperture, and exposure settings. 

Tripod Though not essential, it is a good idea to use something to keep your camera still as you will be taking long exposure shots to capture the lights. Long exposure: 20 seconds

Aperture In your manual settings, go to aperture and set it as wide as your lens allows, i.e. f2/8, f1/4. This will allow the max amount of light to hit the camera sensor in the fastest time, allowing a lot of light in quickly. This means your ISO can be set lower to avoid a ‘noisy image (less grain).

pixelz_Aperture-Chart_900x550px.jpg

ISO This is the level of sensitivity your camera has to the available light. In your manual settings, go to ISO and set it between 400 and 1000. A high ISO can give a grainy image. Try this out and play around with the settings until you’re happy. Mid-range ISO: 800 (depends on light pollution).

The other amazing thing about photography is that your camera will pick up more than your naked eye can. Try looking at the sky and then look through the camera, you will see the lights stronger and brighter through the camera lens. If you aren’t lucky enough to see the Northern Lights then here is a video I made of the Aurora Borealis dancing last year.

portrait with Northern Lights

How Can I Avoid Disappointment?

I get so many questions from people saying they have dreamt of seeing the Northern Lights their entire life, how can they see them. Well, the truth is that the Aurora Borealis is a natural phenomenon and so you just can’t predict them when planning a trip to Iceland. The best time to plan your trip is obviously in the winter months as the Northern Lights season runs from 1st September, through winter, until 15th April, typically but don't be too disappointed if you don't see them. It took me three visits here before I saw them. The best thing to do is plan your holiday in Iceland, see all the beauty of this country from waterfalls and glaciers to lava and moss. Then, if you get to see the Aurora dancing in the sky it’ll be the icing on the frozen cake. 


this post was originally written in 2020 and has been updated

Reykjavik City Guide, Iceland

Welcome to Reykjavik, the capital city of Iceland, and home to 122,141 (2015) people. This colourful little nordic city is the most northern capital in the world and has been my home for a couple of years now.

Back in February 2016, I followed my heart and relocated to Reykjavik to join my Viking, Ingimar (now husband). A new city, and a new adventure - so I decided to keep a weekly video diary in the form of vlogs on my YouTube channel.

Over the last years, I’ve made Reykjavik my home and consider myself very lucky to be surrounded by such dramatic and picturesque landscapes, living under the northern lights and escaping for day trips to chase waterfalls, be amazed by the dreamy moss-covered lava fields, glacier, and other magical sights.

READ: Northern Lights in Reykjavik

I’m guessing you're lucky enough to be planning a visit or adding to Bucket List research, so let’s get into my Reykjavik City Guide.

DIY Walking Tour

There are a few free walking tours in Reykjavik or you can go off and do your own.

Start at the Sun Voyager and walk along the coast to Harpa, then head towards the Parliament and its public square. If you're hungry, on the way you can try the local Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur for yummy hot dogs, or a bowl of lobster soup at nearby Sægreifinn on the harbor, or for more of a family-friendly spot then head to the recently reopened The Laundromat Cafe (free coffee refills & kids play area in the basement). The pond is lined with cute Icelandic houses and on the opposite side, you will see the very Scandinavian-looking church of Fríkirkjan í Reykjavík and the modern City Hall which had a huge topographical map of Iceland in it - worth a look. From here you can either wander around the downtown area and check out some bars and shops, or head up towards Hallgrimskirkja.

READ: I also run an Air BnB Experience walking tour

From here, cross Fríkirkjuvegur and walk up the side street (taking in the street art). Walking around you might spot some little statues and superheroes on the street signs too. Keep going until you arrive at the magnificent Hallgrímskirkja church, inspired by flowing lava and buildings such as the Chrysler Building in New York City. Here you can buy a ticket to gain access to the top of the spire by lift for views across the city, alternatively, drive up to the city water towers at Perlan for a free view from their cafe - their exhibition is great, especially the Aurora Planetarium.

READ: Perlan - Wonders of Iceland Exhibition

Finally walk down the main street of Skólavörðustígur which joins the main shopping street of Laugavegur before you'll arrive back near Harpa.

EDIT: Summer 2019 Perlan is no longer free to access the viewing deck but the cafe on the floor above is nice and the view is free


local swimming pools with hot tubs

The pools in Iceland are fabulous and the main reason I survive living here in winter. Make sure to end a busy day by chilling out with the locals in a “hot pot” at a local swimming pool. The biggest and most popular one is Laugardalslaug, by the national football stadium. Make sure to wander around and try out all of the different hot pools here, including a saltwater pool right at the end. And yes, you do have to shower off before entering the pool or the ‘changing room police’ will get you!!

Adult 18+ 1000 ISK / Kids 160 ISK (under 6 & Senior Citizens free)

Laugardalslaug | a local pool with a huge indoor lanes pool, outdoor pool, kids flume, and a variety of hot pools - including a saltwater pool. Make sure to walk around and try out all the different round pools as they offer different temperatures. Steam room too.

Vesturbæjarlaug | a good outdoor pool and a big hot tub where locals meet to chat, and where I've previously spotted Bjork - twice.

Sundhöllin | a downtown pool with both indoor and outdoor pools, and a hot tub. Cool building and very handy if only spending a short time in Reykjavik.

Árbæjarlaug | a great pool (yes, it’s my fave) mainly because you can swim from the indoor pool to the outdoor and then get straight into a hot tub. There’s a kids pool inside and out, the slide and lanes pool is outdoor. Steam room too.

Breiðholts | a very local pool offering an outdoor lanes pool, kids pool, slides, and hot tubs.

Laugardalslaug Swimming Pool

Sundlaugavegur 30, 105 Reykjavik

Look for bus number 12 and 14 (stop near Laugardalslaug)

Mondays - Thursdays: 6:30am - 10pm
Fridays: 6:30am - 10pm
Weekend: 8am - 10pm

READ: Local pools in Reykjavik, Iceland

laugardalslaug

Grótta lighthouse and hot pool

Ever fancied a stroll along a black sand beach? Watch the sun set with your feet in a natural hot tub? Get all bundled up watching the northern lights with the reward of a hot chocolate after?! Head to Grótta, an easy 10 minute drive along the coast from Reykjavik's Harbour and take in the view across to Esjan.

If it's sunny, why not grab an ice cream from Valdi in Grandi on your way there.

Botanical Gardens - Free admission

I’m adding the Botanical Gardens in because I love them, we are often walking here as a family and the cafe here is just beautiful and offers some delicious treats.

If the weather allows, you can spend a morning wandering the paths of the botanical gardens and heading towards the allotment where you'll find a fantastic Café Flora (open May 1st - September 30th and open at weekends in December, closed Dec 24th, 25th, 26th, 31st, Jan 1st) where you can sip a coffee and nibble on a homemade treat in the beautiful greenhouse cafe.

Botanical Gardens - Free admission

Laugardalur, 104 Reykjavík

Summer (May 1st - September 30th) 10am - 10pm
Winter (October 1st - April 30th) 10am - 3pm

Café-Flóra.jpg

Viðey Island

A short ferry ride (1,500ISK) from Reykjavik harbor is the island of Viðey (summer ferries leave daily from Skarfabakki, Harpa, and Aegisgarour pier and in winter ferry from Skarfabakki weekends only). The island was where the 'father of Reykjavík' Skuli Magnusson constructed his home and a church in the 12thC and has archaeological remains from the early 10th C.

On this island is the Imagine Peace Tower, a beam of light that shines high into the night sky from a wishing well bearing the words "imagine peace" in 24 languages. Designed by Yoko Ono, widow of John Lennon, it is lite annually between his birthday and his death: 9th Oct - 8th Dec.


this post was originally written in 2017 and has been updated

Sonia Nicolson

Architect & former University Lecturer turned Entrepreneur. I help female Entrepreneurs successfully Design & Build their Creative Businesses in Interior Design, Architecture & Urban Sketching.

British Moving to Iceland - YouTube vlog

Relocating to Reykjavík

On a cold and dreary evening here in the UK, I share some exciting news with you...I'm off on another adventure!! 

I've travelled for many reasons before - for adventure, for education, for career, and have had some great opportunities through my current job as a senior lecturer. And this time, I'm following my heart and moving to Reykjavik in Iceland.

A leap of faith…following my heart

My boyfriend, Ingimar (who is Icelandic), and I have thought about this for months, we've discussed it - often overthought it - but it all came down to one thing, we want to be together, living and sharing a life. Long-distance relationships are challenging. Seeing each other in 2D on a screen can be hard at times but it also forces you to talk a lot more and discover so much about the other person. When you finally meet again, in 3D, every minute is so precious. 

So, as much as I joke about how I will be spending my days bathing in hot springs and conquering glaciers, I will be focussing on my creativity again and have lots of ideas up my thermal sleeve. But for now, there is a super long To-Do list to start checking off before I leave my job at University and fly home to Edinburgh for a magical Christmas with family and friends.


Week one

British, Living in Iceland

The sun is finally up and it's still snowing outside, thank goodness for my lumie lamp. I have a nice warm cup of tea and I'm ready to tell you more about my very exciting relocation news. 

Welcome to week one in Reykjavik

I arrived a week ago and was met at the airport by my fiancé plus a red rose - what a romantic. It was a complete blizzard outside so we made a run for the car park, it's been white outside ever since. First impressions...well, it feels a little like Christmas pretty much every day with the dark mornings, snowing landscape, and twinkling fairy lights BUT PLEASE ICELAND, put down some grit - I think (and hope) I will have amazing core strength by Spring. 

The next day we had a slow morning catching up and making pancakes. I had signed up to deliver a lecture the following day so had to finish preparing that. I felt quite at home with Ingimar pottering around whilst I worked away on my laptop. The next day he dropped me off at the venue and we met the team. I gave a lecture on 'Preparing a portfolio for Art College' and then met with some students to answer their questions. It was my first day of work in Iceland and it was going well - that feels like a month ago now. 

Moving and living abroad

Back to the move. Having relocated a few times now, to Japan and India, I should be an expert on this but of course, I stressed, I over-worried, I left things to the last minute, there were hiccups and letdowns, but I got here and it's all worked out just fine. 

I couldn't have done it without my mum and my fiancé, so a massive thank you goes to them. My mum flew down to Bournemouth to help me pack up the flat, get my boxes shipped, and say my final goodbyes before I flew home for Christmas. My fiancé, Ingimar, has been so supportive from the start. He knew when to help and when I needed time. He bugged me on some things and got me organized on others. He didn't worry too much when he was excited and I was, well, just plain stressed. 

It's only been a week and I'm already 3 boxes down...7 to go, but I have a good feeling about this. I've spent the week relaxing, napping, adjusting, and doing some interior planning. I have lots of ideas and have been working on education-related blog posts, my upcoming e-courses, and also recording some footage for a video diary I am now editing so will try to post it over the weekend (let's see). Yes, it's daunting to move again, and to a cold, dark country where I can't speak the language but that's just a challenge, right?...filled with potential, yeah!? Ha. But seriously, I feel very happy and lucky to be here in Reykjavik, with Ingimar, and having the time to get settled in, together.

So here we go. Surrounded by packing boxes and ideas lists…welcome to Chapter Iceland


have you ever relocated to a different city or country?

Seljavallalaug Geothermal Algae Pool, Iceland

I'm going to let you into a little secret, Seljavallalaug, the hidden pool on the south coast of Iceland, and I highly recommend you visit. 

How to get to Seljavallalaug

It is not the most easily reached swimming pool you will ever go to but it's certainly not too challenging to get to. I've listed a few images from the walk below, and maps above, which will hopefully help you find your way. It's a 10-15min walk, pretty easy, the only difficulty is crossing the river but honestly, it's pretty shallow and you are only running the risk of getting wet feet in the icy cold water (maybe bring a spare pair of socks and shoes).

We drove along Highway 1, the main highway ring road filled with sightseeing tourists, waterfalls, volcanos, and much more on the south coast of Iceland. We passed through Selfoss, Hella and Hvolsvöllur on the way from Reykjavik. Head towards Ásólfsskáli and Holt, look out for the Eyjafjallajökull Erupts exhibition (run by a local farmer) on the right and the turning is shortly after on your left, I think it is the second road. Road 242 acts as a loopback onto Highway 1, take this road and drive halfway up. You will see a small track which leads straight up towards the mountains, go up this road and it will take you towards the valley and the newer pool opened in 1990. Park here, and leave your valuables safely in the car, and start walking up through the valley and upriver (image 3) to the old pool for a very special swim. 

After a few minutes, you will reach an open area, like a dry river bed, (image one) walk straight through that and you will come to the river (image two) which you need to cross. We crossed on the stepping stones laid by previous visitors and added some more on our way back. It was fine, no issues but this might be different depending on the weather. From here it's easy, walk a few more minutes along the river’s edge and not up the hill, you will see the pool just around the hillside (image five). 

What’s Seljavallalaug like?

It is basic but it's absolutely adequate for the experience. You can change in the small white building at the end of the pool. It offers three rooms with a bench and some coat hooks. It’s very basic, cold, and often damp so you will want to be in and out quickly. There might be a queue so have a quick check to see if anyone is lurking in the pool keeping warm but ready to jump in front of you in the wait for a free room. There are no showers or toilets so it’s a case of stripping down to your swimming stuff and enjoy the pool before braving the cold when you get out and get changed. You might want to bring a couple of towels to wrap yourself in and maybe a pair of flip-flops if you don't want to walk barefoot around the algae poolside. Other than that, it’s pretty much not been touched since it was built which makes for a very authentic and beautiful experience. 

Swimming at Seljavallalaug

One of the oldest pools in Iceland, built in 1923, this man-made pool was originally built to teach local children how to swim as part of compulsory education from 1927. 25m long and 10m wide, Seljavallalaug was the largest pool in Iceland until 1936. It might look a bit ominously green but trust me, it’s all good and the water is lovely and warm from all that Icelandic geothermal heat. Either jump in at the end by the white wall where it’s deeper than you can stand or use the ladder by the changing rooms and take it slowly. The floor of the pool is obviously going to be slimy, I believe it is cleaned annually by volunteers in the summer, so just get on with swimming in this unique 25m pool...lie back, enjoy the view and warmth of the water, and think of the beauty and health benefits of bathing in algae. 

What a setting, it’s pretty unique. 

An amazing experience and a very special place that not many people either know of or make the effort to find. If you go, please do make a donation to help maintain and preserve Seljavallaug. 


Have you visited Seljavallalaug?

Jökulsárlón, The Glacier Lagoon, Iceland

Jökulsárlón, the Glacier Lagoon, is quite possibly one of the most impressive natural sites I have ever seen. I had no idea what to expect, other than a load of water with a few lumps of ice floating in it, BUT this was mind-blowingly cool.

We drove to the lagoon via Vik and stopped off for lunch to break up the 3+ hour drive. The weather was utterly miserable, rain from all directions so you couldn't see much of the scenery other than the odd sheep on the road or bridge to break up the monotony. When we did arrive, I planned my venture out into the rain wisely. This meant counting to 3, jumping out of the car, and making a mad dash for the boot where my spare shoes and waterproofs were. Back in the car to change, waterproof layer on and we were off. 

I was pretty excited by this point, let’s be honest, it had been building for hours whilst staring out at the grey day and knowing we were driving past waterfalls, mountains, and glaciers hidden by the gloominess. Speed-walking from the car park up to the top of the hill, I caught the first glimpse of the glaciers and was speechless. Yes, a pool of floating compacting snow, but just look at it!! I let out an excited yelp and then a frustrated moan to my boyfriend to hurry up. He, being the typical Icelander, was walking up the hill wearing a waterproof, pair of shorts and flip-flops. It was raining upward and we were soaked already. I started walking down to the shore where he proceeded to kick off his flip-flops and go for a paddle in the icy water. 

Mesmerized but interrupted by my need to try and capture these amazing ice structures, their patterns, and the colours, I took my camera out from its new home inside my waterproof and concentrated. A cracking sound and then a quiet splash, a glacier that had just broken in two and a half was now floating down the lagoon and heading out to sea.

The Glacier Lagoon acts like a basin for when small pieces of the main glacier break off and float down headed for the North Sea. They are too big to float downstream and out to sea so sit in the basin until they break down. If you are lucky you might see this happen in front of you. You might also be able, as we did, to spot a seal or two playing in amongst the glaciers. 

Soaked through with a rather rained-on camera, not to mention the cold, we headed back to the car to change and dry off. I don't know if it was the naturally soothing greyish-blue water of the lagoon, greyish white gloomy sky, and a mixture of icy tones in between or the magic of these structures and their variety as they floated slowly, cracking and melting, but I could honestly have stayed there all day.

book a tour to Jökulsárlón, the Glacier Lagoon

2 Day Tour to Jökulsárlón | Blue Ice Cave, Black Beach & South Coast Waterfalls


Have you visited Jökulsárlón, the Glacier Lagoon?

A Drive Through Snæfellsnes Peninsula, West Iceland

Snæfellsnes

We started off from Reykjavik around lunchtime, stopping for the standard Icelandic service station hotdog on the way, and arrived at the perfect time for the evening meal of fish tacos at my boyfriend’s friend’s house. Armed with a map and a load of 90's CDs to sing and dance to in the car, we hit the road and were headed West in search of Snæfellsnes. 

This part of Iceland is very sparse, exposed, and wild. It’s late summer and still pretty light but cold, wet, and windy. The drive here is beautiful and I have stopped to take many photographs. The moss-covered lava landscape is something I have fallen in love with, I am addicted and mesmerized as we drive past fields of it. We see small villages, towns, the odd church standing proud and bold with mountains and waterfalls as backdrops. It’s stunning. 

We arrived at my boyfriends’ friend’s house where we were staying the night, he also happens to be the assistant park ranger and so gave us a quick tour of the park before it got too cold and dark. We drove around from a white sand beach to a black sand beach, from one lighthouse to the next. As it got darker, the stars started to shine brightly and the moon lit up the lava and mountains with glaciers atop - I am looking forward to seeing the park in daylight. 

The next day we woke early and headed out to find coffee at a local bakery in the town before heading off to the park to see it in daylight. We went straight to djúpalónssandur beach, the black sand beach which is famous for its stones and boulders, laid out as a test of strength for new recruits looking to join fishing boats. The boulders are named fullsterkur (full strong 154 kg), fullsterkur (half strong 100 kg), Hálfdrættingur (half carrier 54 kg), and amlóði (hamlet/weakling 23kg) - needless to say I left the heavy lifting to my boyfriend. We spent some time sitting on the rocks, watching the waves splash and circle around us, chatting and taking in the surroundings, climbing rocks and lava, and enjoying time together.

Snæfellsnes is huge and you could spend a few days wandering the different sites and hanging out on its beaches, walking the cliffside trails, discovering its caves, or hiking up to the Glacier. We spend an evening driving around to get an overview and then a full day revisiting the sites we wanted to. You could do this by bus, or on foot if you have a good few days to plan, but by car is best and means you can shelter from the weather and see lots of different spots.

We then drove around stopping at lighthouses, beaches and even drove into the middle of the Hólahólar crater and had a look around before heading to find a nice warm bowl of soup. We went to Arnarstapi where we spotted the large statue of a character from one of the Icelandic sagas'. This is Bárður Snæfellsáss (below) who was the son of a human mother and half-troll, half-giant father. He had 3 tall and beautiful daughters with his first wife, also half human half roll, and a further 6 daughters with his second wife. The saga tells of a fight he had with his half-brother. This brother had a son who used to play with one of Bárðurs' daughters. Once they were playing on the ice along the shore and the son pushed the daughter out to sea on an iceberg. She drifted all the way to Greenland where she fell in love. Bárður was furious and fought with his brother and brother’s son who then fled the land. He gave away his land and farm, and vanished up to the Snæfellsjökull ice cap where he became known as Bárður Snæfellsáss meaning "guardian spirit". People of the peninsula worshipped him, calling upon him in times of difficulty.

The drive back was beautiful and we made a few stops for the all-important photographs. Of course, this post would not be complete without featuring some pretty cool examples of Icelandic architecture. These traditional country buildings we spotted at the entrance gates are amazing. We also stopped for a hot chocolate later in the day in one which had been restored and renovated into a cafe at Arnarstapi. Their hairy grass roofs and ultra-thick walls keep them well insulated and they look adorable snuggled, and rightfully so to avoid the cold, into the bottom of a hill.


Have you visited Snæfellsnes in the West of Iceland?